Hotels



A'jia Hotel - Despite a lack of tourist amenities on the Asian side, the A’jia boutique hotel is one more reason to cross over to it. Located in the northern suburb of Kanlica, and housed in a converted a 19th-century Ottoman mansion, the rooms are decorated in a neutral palette, with an airy and spacious feel to them. Still, the hotel’s main draw is its location right on the waterfront. Request a room with a Bosphorus view, or simply enjoy watching the sea traffic from the comfort of the open-air restaurant.

Hotspots



Lokanta Maya - If you’re looking for the heart of trendy Istanbul, Karaköy is where you’ll find it. Despite the area’s slightly shabby appearance (it’s one of the oldest districts in the city), a small warren of cool bars, shops and cafes has sprung up around Kilic Ali Pasa Mescidi, attracting a swathe of hipster types. Muhit serves simple but cozy comfort food, while tiny Baltazar does a nice line in steaks and burgers. As for baklava, Karaköy Güllüoglu is the only place to go. Round the corner, the fine dining at Lokanta Maya (pictured) and design boutiques such as Atölye 11 are leading the charge in Karaköy’s renaissance.

Asian Side



Anna Serrano/Grand Tour/Corbis - On the Asian side, connected to Kadıköy by an antique tram, is Moda, a slightly more residential area. You might not be interested in seeing houses (although there are some fine specimens of old Ottoman architecture to be found) but the large park, which looks out onto the Bosphorus and Sea of Marmara, makes it the perfect place to escape the city. Grab a cup of çay (tea), go for a relaxing stroll down Moda pier, and take in a view that other tourists rarely see: the skyline of Istanbul’s European side.