Located halfway between Norway and the North Pole, Svalbard is an extraordinary archipelago home to seabirds, polar bears, reindeers and marine mammals that have adapted to life in this frosty escape. In May and June the ice retreats and the tundra clears of snow, with temperatures remaining steadily above zero until September – making this the best time of year to explore the numerous islands. Humans are the minority this far north, with only 2,500 people calling Svalbard home year-round, compared to an estimated 3,000 polar bears. When travelling outside the settlements, residents are required to carry a rifle for their own protection.